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Why I Use the Alcohol Intermediary Method for Infused Oils

Why I Use the Alcohol Intermediary Method for Infused Oils

Why I Use the Alcohol Intermediary Method for Infused Oils

—or, how I learned to stop fighting the chemistry of plants

There’s a moment in every herbalist’s life when you realize that just because something is traditional doesn’t mean it’s optimal.

Oil infusions are a perfect example.

They’re beloved. Ancient. Beautiful in their simplicity.
And also… chemically limited.

Oil, for all its virtues, is not a great solvent. It’s selective. It’s slow. And when used alone, it often leaves a significant amount of plant medicine locked behind stubborn cell walls—medicine that never quite makes it into the final bottle.

That realization changed how I make infused oils forever.

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How I Learned This Method

I didn’t invent this. I learned it from Michael Moore, one of the most influential herbalists of the modern era and a teacher who emphasized understanding plants as living chemistry, not just folk ritual.

Michael taught what’s called the alcohol intermediary method, a technique that respects both the structure of plants and the limitations of oil as a solvent.

Once I understood the “why,” I never went back.

The Core Problem with Straight Oil Infusions

Let’s talk plainly for a moment.

Oil does an excellent job extracting:

  • Lipophilic (fat-soluble) compounds
  • Aromatic constituents
  • Some resins and oleoresins

But oil struggles with:

  • Alkaloids
  • Glycosides
  • Many bitters
  • Minerals and water-soluble constituents

And most importantly:
👉 Oil does not readily penetrate intact plant cell walls.

So when we pour oil over dried herbs and wait weeks (or heat it and hope for the best), we’re often extracting around the plant rather than through it.

Alcohol as the Key That Unlocks the Cell

This is where the intermediary comes in.

A small amount of alcohol used first acts as a cell wall disruptor.

Alcohol:

  • Penetrates plant cells rapidly
  • Breaks down cellulose and lignin structures
  • Mobilizes constituents that oil alone cannot reach

By lightly moistening the plant material with alcohol before adding oil, you’re not making a tincture. You’re preparing the plant.

Think of it as softening the soil before planting seeds.

Once those cell walls are opened, the oil can move in and do its work far more effectively.

Better Extraction, Fuller Medicine

The result?

  • A broader spectrum of constituents in your oil
  • Stronger color, aroma, and therapeutic activity
  • Less wasted plant material
  • You’re no longer relying on time and heat alone. You’re working with the plant’s architecture instead of against it.

This is especially important for roots, barks, berries, and tougher aerial parts—plants that hold their medicine deep.

>>> New here and don't know where to start? Click here for a beginner's guide.<<<

Shelf Life Matters (and No One Talks About It Enough)

Here’s the other piece that sold me completely: rancidity.

Straight oil infusions (especially fresh-plant oils) are notorious for short shelf life. Residual moisture, intact plant matter, and incomplete extraction all contribute to oxidation and spoilage.

The alcohol intermediary method helps by:

  • Reducing microbial activity
  • Driving off excess water before oil infusion
  • Creating a cleaner, more stable final product

While it doesn’t magically make oils immortal, it significantly improves stability and longevity when done correctly.

Translation:
Less heartbreak. Fewer jars gone bad. More trust in what you’re putting on your skin.

This Isn’t About Being Fancy

This method isn’t about being more “advanced” or elitist. It’s about respecting the intelligence of plants (and also just getting a better result).

Plants evolved complex cellular defenses. They don’t just give up their medicine because we put them in a jar and wait. When we understand their structure, we can extract their gifts more fully and without force and waste.

That’s the lineage I choose to work in.

Traditional and informed.
Ancestral and precise.
Rooted in reverence, guided by chemistry.


{RECIPE} A Simple Alcohol Intermediary Lavender Infused Oil

A safe, approachable way to try this method at home for yourself

(This recipe isn't super mathematical because I don't want to overwhelm anyone. Ballpark numbers will do for personal/home use.)

Lavender is one of the best plants to begin with when learning the alcohol intermediary method. It’s aromatic, resilient, and deeply compatible with oil extraction, especially when the cell walls are gently opened first.

This oil is suitable for:

  • Nervous system support
  • Skin care and minor irritations
  • Bedtime rituals and self-massage
  • Gentle support for children and elders

What You’ll Need

  • Dried lavender flowers (organic, fully dried, and coarsely blended into a somewhat powder)
  • High-proof alcohol (vodka works well enough)
  • Olive oil or jojoba oil (olive for tradition, jojoba for longer shelf life)
  • Glass jar with lid
  • Blender
  • Cheesecloth or fine strainer
  • Clean glass bottle for storage

Step 1: Prepare the Plant

Fill a clean glass jar about 1-2 ounces in volume with the coarsely ground lavender flowers. 

Step 2: The Alcohol Intermediary

Sprinkle alcohol over the lavender just until it is evenly damp, not swimming. About 15-20mL on 1-2 ounces of herb usually does it.

You’re not making a tincture here.
You want the plant material moistened enough that it feels pliable and aromatic, with the consistency of damp soil and no pooling liquid at the bottom of the jar.

Cover the jar, shake it up really well, and let it sit for 12–24 hours.

This step allows the alcohol to penetrate and gently disrupt the plant cell walls, making the aromatic and therapeutic compounds more accessible to the oil.

Step 3: Add the Oil

After the intermediary period, transfer to the blender, and pour your oil over the lavender. You want somewhere around a 1:5 to 1:8 ratio of plant to oil. So if you have 1 ounce of plant, use between 5-8 ounces of oil. I, personally, use 1:5, but anywhere in between is pretty common.

Step 4: Infusion

Blend until the oil is slightly warm; about 2-3 minutes. You can decant into a clean jar and infuse in a warm, dark place for another 2-3 weeks or you can move on to the next step if you're tight on time.

Step 5: Strain & Store

After infusion:

  • Strain through cheesecloth or a fine strainer
  • Gently squeeze the plant material
  • Bottle the oil in clean, dry glass

Label with the date and contents. This is important. Always label and never trust that you'll remember what it is later. Trust me, you never remember.

I label my jars with the plant name (common and binomial), the ratio, and the date. 

My label would look like this: "Lavendar (Lavandula angustifolia) in Olive Oil 1/5/2026 1:5"

Shelf Life

Thanks to the alcohol intermediary step, this oil will generally last longer than a straight oil infusion, especially if stored away from heat and light.

For extra stability:

  • Add a small amount of vitamin E (optional)
  • Use jojoba oil instead of olive oil

How to Tell If an Oil Has Gone Rancid

Even with the alcohol intermediary method, infused oils are living preparations—and they’ll always give you signals when they’re past their prime.

Here’s what to look for:

Your nose knows first.
A healthy infused oil should smell:

  • Mildly herbal
  • Soft, green, or floral
  • Clean and pleasant

If the oil smells:

  • Sharp
  • Crayon-like
  • Sour
  • “Old nuts” (lol) or stale
    …it has oxidized and should be discarded.

Look at the texture and clarity.
Rancid oils may appear:

  • Cloudy when they were once clear (depends on how/if you filtered for clarity)
  • Sticky or tacky on the skin
  • Unusually thick

Some cloudiness can happen with temperature changes, but persistent dullness or heaviness is a red flag.

Notice how it feels on the skin.
Fresh oil absorbs smoothly.
Rancid oil often feels:

  • Draggy
  • Coating rather than nourishing
  • Slightly irritating or itchy

If your skin hesitates or reacts, listen.

When in doubt, don’t push it.
Unlike tinctures, oils don’t improve with age. If something feels off, trust your senses and compost the oil.

This isn’t failure.
It’s part of working with real, perishable medicine.

A Note on Spoilage & Craft

Because infused oils are made with real plants and real fats, without synthetic preservatives, they are naturally perishable.

An oil going rancid does not mean it was poorly made. In fact, it often means the opposite.

Handcrafted oils are alive. They respond to light, heat, time, and air. Even expertly prepared oils can eventually oxidize, especially when they’re used often, opened frequently, or stored in warm environments.

Think of infused oils like fresh food rather than shelf-stable cosmetics. Their impermanence is part of their honesty.

This is why:

  • Storage matters
  • Shelf life is finite
  • And your senses are part of the quality control

When an oil reaches the end of its life, it’s not a failure—it’s a completion.

Thank it. Compost it. Make another. That’s the rhythm of real herbal medicine.

How to Use Your Lavender Oil

  • Massage into temples, neck, or feet before bed
  • Apply to minor skin irritations or dry patches
  • Use as a base oil for salves or body oils
  • Add a few drops to a warm compress

This is gentle medicine, but real medicine nonetheless.

When people make their first infused oil and feel the difference—richer aroma, deeper color, more noticeable effects—it builds trust.

Not just in the method, but in themselves.

That’s why I teach this.

Enjoy your oil and drop a comment to let me know your experience if you try it!

Ready to Begin?

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