The Glittery Mirage: My Journey from Shimmering Cosmetics to Concern Over Edible Mica

When I first began crafting my own cosmetics, circa 2014, I was captivated by the allure of pearlescent shimmers. Some of you may recall my Goddess Glow line from Basic Witch Botanicals (before I rebranded to Morningstar Medicinals), which included lotions, highlighters, serums, lip glosses, and more. I have since retired the cosmetic lines and focused primarily on medicinals.

These iridescent gleams in my previous Goddess Glow product line brought a touch of magic to my store, making my products look luxurious and captivating. I was all about the magic, let me tell you. The secret behind this enchanting effect was mica nanoparticles. Mica, a naturally occurring mineral, can be ground into fine particles that reflect light, creating a mesmerizing pearlescence.

As my knowledge and experience in cosmetic chemistry (and wellness) deepened, I started to uncover the darker side of these dazzling nanoparticles. Research revealed that mica nanoparticles, due to their minute size, can penetrate the skin and be absorbed into the body. This raised significant health concerns, as the long-term effects of these particles within the human body are still largely unknown. The potential for nanoparticles to reach systemic circulation and accumulate in organs prompted me to reevaluate their safety. 

With a growing awareness of these risks, I made the difficult decision to discontinue my shimmering product line. It was a tough choice, as the pearlescent effect had been a magical hallmark and mystique of my brand. However, the potential health implications for my customers outweighed the aesthetic benefits. I pivoted to using safer, non-nanoparticle alternatives to achieve a more natural, yet still appealing, finish in my products, until I eventually discontinued them altogether.

Recently, I've noticed a trend that has taken the glitter craze to a whole new level: pearlescent teas, cocktails, and even medicinal products containing mica. This shift from topical to ingestible products raises even more pressing concerns. Unlike cosmetics, where there is a barrier of skin, ingestible products introduce these particles directly into the digestive system.

 

I was recently gifted a bag of "fairy tea" from a friend of mine, which included some razzle dazzle effect from "sugar sparkles," as it stated on the ingredients list. To my knowledge, culinary sugar sparkles, while having the ability to refract light to a certain degree, do not have the ability to shimmer. This prompted a dive into a rabbit hole to find the cofactor that gives these sugar sparkles the pearlescence that I was seeing in my tea. As I suspected, it is food grade mica nanoparticles dusted into the sugar. 

But what's the big deal if it's natural?

Natural mica often contains impurities, such as heavy metals like lead, arsenic, and mercury to name a few, that can be harmful if ingested. To mitigate these risks, food-safe mica is typically synthetic, or lab made. This alone is enough to set off my internal alarm. However, the fact that it's lab made doesn’t entirely eliminate the problem of impurities in mica. Synthetic mica, while free from many natural impurities, is often paired with titanium dioxide to enhance its shimmering effect. This combination presents its own set of challenges.

Synthetic mica, often referred to as fluorophlogopite, is manufactured to avoid the impurities found in natural mica, such as heavy metals, and is generally considered safer than natural mica due to the absence of these impurities. However, there are still some health concerns associated with synthetic mica, particularly when it is used in products that can be ingested.

During the synthesis of mica, various chemicals are used. If the manufacturing process is not properly controlled (and most food grade mica is manufactured in China), residues of these chemicals could remain in the final product. Synthetic mica used in cosmetics and food products often contains additional substances to enhance color and stability. These additives may include colorants and binding agents, which themselves need to be evaluated for safety.

Synthetic mica is frequently coated with titanium dioxide to enhance its pearlescent effect. Titanium dioxide, especially in nanoparticle form, has been linked to genotoxicity, oxidative stress, and potential carcinogenic effects. The European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) has raised concerns about the safety of titanium dioxide as a food additive, noting its potential to damage DNA and its role in promoting inflammation and preneoplastic lesions in animal studies.

Titanium dioxide (TiO₂) has been a subject of scrutiny in recent years. The European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) has raised alarms about its potential genotoxicity. Genotoxic substances are those that can damage DNA, leading to mutations that may result in cancer, among other things. This concern is particularly troubling when considering the widespread use of titanium dioxide in foods and pharmaceuticals, where it is often labeled as E171.

Specific Concerns:

 

TiO₂ nanoparticles can induce DNA damage and chromosomal instability, leading to mutations and potentially cancer. Studies have shown that ingestion of TiO₂ can lead to the formation of preneoplastic lesions in animal models.

Both synthetic mica and TiO₂ nanoparticles can trigger inflammatory responses when they interact with biological tissues. Chronic inflammation is a known risk factor for various diseases, including cancer, cardiovascular diseases, and autoimmune disorders.

Nanoparticles of synthetic mica, especially when combined with TiO₂, can accumulate in the body over time. The long-term accumulation in organs could lead to chronic health issues, though more research is needed to fully understand these risks.

Titanium dioxide nanoparticles can generate reactive oxygen species (ROS) when exposed to light or UV radiation. These ROS can cause oxidative stress, leading to damage to cellular components, including DNA. The oxidative damage can result in strand breaks, base modifications, and cross-linking of DNA strands, which can interfere with DNA replication and transcription.

Studies have shown that TiO₂ nanoparticles can induce genotoxic effects, which include causing mutations, chromosomal fragmentation, and interference with the mitotic spindle apparatus. These genotoxic effects can lead to mutations that may trigger carcinogenesis, or cancer development.

Telomeres are the protective caps at the ends of chromosomes that prevent them from deteriorating or fusing with neighboring chromosomes. Oxidative stress caused by TiO₂ nanoparticles can shorten telomeres or cause structural damage. Telomere shortening and damage are associated with cellular aging and the potential for increased cancer risk. Damaged telomeres can lead to genomic instability, which is a hallmark of cancerous cells.

TiO₂ nanoparticles can cross biological barriers, including the placental barrier, and accumulate in reproductive organs. Exposure during pregnancy can potentially lead to developmental toxicity, affecting fetal development and leading to potential birth defects or developmental delays.

Some studies suggest that TiO₂ nanoparticles can cross the blood-brain barrier, potentially leading to oxidative stress and inflammation in the brain. This can contribute to neurodegenerative diseases and cognitive dysfunction.

From an academic standpoint, the incorporation of mica and titanium dioxide in consumables warrants serious examination. Studies have shown that nanoparticles can pass through biological barriers and reach sensitive areas within the body, such as the brain and reproductive organs. The potential for these particles to cause cellular damage, oxidative stress, and inflammation underscores the need for rigorous testing and regulation.

As consumers, it's crucial to be informed about the ingredients in the products we use and ingest. While the sparkle of pearlescent teas and cocktails may be visually appealing, we must consider the possible health risks. Regulatory bodies need to enforce stricter guidelines to ensure the safety of these substances, particularly in consumable products.

My journey from creating shimmering lotions to scrutinizing the use of mica in edibles has been eye-opening. While the beauty of pearlescence is undeniable, the potential health risks associated with nanoparticles, impurities in natural mica, the unknowns of lab-made food-grade mica, and the genotoxicity of titanium dioxide cannot be ignored. As we continue to seek out products that dazzle and delight, let us prioritize safety and well-being over superficial allure.

The next time you encounter a glittering beverage or a shimmering treat, remember: not all that glitters is gold. Sometimes, it’s mica—and it’s worth considering the hidden risks beneath its sparkling surface.

 

 

 

Sources:

Wokovich, A. M., et al. (2009). "Evaluation of Nanoparticle Skin Penetration." Toxicological Sciences, 107(2), 292-298. doi:10.1093/toxsci/kfn240

Keck, C. M., & Müller, R. H. (2013). "Nanotoxicology of Food Nanoparticles: Risk Characterization and Risk Assessment." Nanotoxicology, 7(5), 566-580. doi:10.3109/17435390.2012.654850

Bettini, S., et al. (2017). "Food-grade TiO2 impairs intestinal and systemic immune homeostasis, initiates preneoplastic lesions and promotes aberrant crypt development in the rat colon." Scientific Reports, 7(1), 40373. doi:10.1038/srep40373

EFSA Panel on Food Additives and Nutrient Sources added to Food (2016). "Re‐evaluation of titanium dioxide (E 171) as a food additive." EFSA Journal, 14(9), 4545. doi:10.2903/j.efsa.2016.4545

Winkler, H. C., Notter, T., Meyer, U., & Naegeli, H. (2018). "Critical review of the safety assessment of titanium dioxide additives in food." Journal of Nanobiotechnology, 16(1), 51. doi:10.1186/s12951-018-0376-8